100% Homemade Lathe
Feb 27, · Once your lathe is up and running, you can start wood turning immediately, and begin making handles and small bowls in unlimited designs. This content is Author: Timothy Dahl. % Homemade Lathe: Although I know other people have built lathes themselves, after an enormous amount of looking on Google, I saw most homemade lathes involve casting and milling, as well as using off the shelf components like chucks and tapers. Being only a high sch.
So instead I decided to make one. I went out and made one, but with some differences. Here are the links to Matthias' project. When I was making the lathe I was curious how it got its start and the history behind it, latje I did some research. The art of turning got its start in ancient Egypt around BCE. Archaeologists found clear evidence showing turned pieces of stone.
Egyptians had made a two person lathe; one person would spin the piece using a rope and the other person would carve out a bowl, cup, weapon or tool. Thousands of bowls were found with accuracy only achievable with a lathe. For example, the vase above shows how it's able to balance on less than. This shows how much time was spent on the art of turning, and how good they became at using a lathe.
Around BCE, the ancient Romans modified the Egyptian's design by what kind of monitor do i have a bow and string to assist with turning, allowing a single person to operate the lathe.
The Romans shared their knowledge of lathes with other countries, but not how to use them as well as the Egyptians did. When Egypt fell in 30 BCE, their turning skills were lost too. The Roman's lathe design was used for quite a while until the middle ages. People had started replacing the bow with a paddle and pole like a manual sewing machinethis allowed for one person to spin the piece and work on it with both hands. At the start of the Industrial revolution, the lathe was responsible for making the first accurate machines.
The lathe was able to produce accurate parts with relative ease, because of this, people were able to create more accurate tools. This is how it got its nickname, the "Mother of Machine Tools". For example, the U. To power these lathes, they would use horses, eventually leading to steam engines or water wheels.
The world's biggest lathe pictured abovewas made by a company called Shin Nippon Koki of Japan. The rotor is able to turn a work how to set up voicemail on lg android phone weighing tons. Lahe lathe was used to make shafts for massive propellers on cargo ships.
Modern lathes are small, simple and easy to use. So this Instructable will teach you how to make a small simple jomemade lathe capable of making what most woodworkers would ever need it to maoe. My lathe is similar to Matthias', but I decided to add some different parts to ease assembly and make it more reliable.
Here is what you'll need to make what I made:. Pulleys, one to fit over the motor small and one for the spindle large. If you have a 3D printer you can print your parts you can find links to my designs below. If not, a library might have a printer that allows members to use it. If you can't find a 3D printer you can make the rest of the lathe and use a wood pulley, or source metal pulleys from junk yards.
Bearing blocks. Again, if you can 3D print them, do so. If not, you can use wood ones like Matthias did. Could be free if you print your blocks. An AC motor, with switch how to make a homemade lathe plug. If you don't have one why would you then you can check craigslist - that's where I got mine. If there's nothing then you can look at Harbor Freight or Home Depot if they have one that will work.
Now you are ready to start building. I started with the base. With the pine board, cut angles on it to go from straight to diagonal sides. To hold the parts from the bottom, I cut out pieces of poplar around 2 inches long and cut notches in the sides so that they glide between the rails last picture.
Now we can make the left side of the lathe, aka the lathe head. I started with making another pine board the same size as the lathe's legs. Attach one laghe one lathe leg and sandwich it with some scrap wood, to act as braces first picture.
Then do the same thing to the other leg that was just cut out. Cut more pieces of scrap wood to brace between the two legs, making a little box last picture. To mount the motor, I used a book to elevate it. Then I marked where to drill the main hole for the pulley then for the actual screw mounts themselves.
You may want one hole to be a Chanel giving you some adjustability. Drill all the holes you need and mount. Then you want to mount the bearing blocks. I set the bearing blocks on the tail stock and on the head of the lathe. Then I used a rod to make them all line up.
Mark and drill where they need to go. Then cut the rod to length. Then for the tail stock you want 3" or more sticking out, allowing you to work on projects with a wide range of sizes.
Then screw on your pulley to the head, and slide it between the blocks. Now wrap the belt around the pulleys and adjust motor. I adjusted it by adding or removing pieces of paper underneath it. Now you can turn on your lathe and finish up any loose ends. You can play around with the spacing of the pulley and adjust the motor. At this point you might be asking yourself how are you going to mount any wood?
Well I'll tell you, we can use the tee nuts and mount that at the end of whatever mke we want to turn. Simply drill a hole homemsde fit the majority of the tee nut and hammer it into the what antibiotics cure gonorrhea and chlamydia. Then you can screw it in and support it with the tail how to make a homemade lathe and start to turn home,ade piece.
When turning thinner wood I would add a hose clamp around the tee nut to support it. When I made this, I wanted to maoe something that would be relatively easy and yet show off its ability. I wanted to make a handle for some files I just got. I glued two pieces of extra poplar together then started to work it down into a nice little handle. This worked well, I sanded it then lathr off the blocks on each side making what you see above.
I learned the hard way how important it is to prep wood to being close to a cylinder before mounting it. If you don't, it is extremely hard on you and the lathe. Thank you for reading this Instructables, I really enjoyed making this and I hope you will too. If you have any feedback I'd be happy to discus. Introduction: Homemade Wood Lathe. By Chandler slowik Follow. More by the author:. Homekade I love to make things and challenge my mind! I started playing with Lego's when I was 2 and it led my to peruse engineering throughout school.
More About Chandler slowik ». Here is what you'll need to make what I made: 1. Long bolts, about 6 inches long, with matching wing nuts and washers. Did you llathe this project? Share it with us! I Made It!
Step 1: Overview
Homemade Wood Lathe: I wanted a lathe because of all the stuff you can make with it and how fun they looked, I knew I could get one for about $ (excluding tools) but that was beyond my budget. So instead I decided to make one. I stumbled upon a YouTube video by Matth. A woodworking lathe is the perfect tool to turn square and rectangular pieces of wood stock in to turn round wood pieces. These pieces can be used in furniture and wood projects that require a round edge to parts which will make up the wood piece you are creating.
Although I know other people have built lathes themselves, after an enormous amount of looking on Google, I saw most homemade lathes involve casting and milling, as well as using off the shelf components like chucks and tapers. Being only a high school student, I wanted to experiment with a lathe without having to spend hundreds of dollars that I don't have.
I ended up using almost all scrap materials from my basement, so there is no need to follow my materials choices. Because your design choices will vary, this article is more of a record of how I built this one, rather than a manual for building yours. I managed to build this lathe in about a week, with not much more than a cordless drill, a drill press, a jigsaw, and assorted hand tools. I hope that I have documented my project here in an understandable way.
Warning: This is a powerful device designed to spin stuff quickly. I take no responsibility for anything you do. Don't try this unless you have at least a little bit of experience with tools. And wear safety glasses when using it because particles fly around. So, if you are reading this, you must be interested in building a homemade lathe.
The first thing you have to decide is what kind of lathe you want. Either to work with metal or wood. A wood lathe requires a less powerful motor and not as close tolerances. Also a wood lathe does not need the complicated tool rest that a metal lathe has. For the first version of my lathe, I decided to just stick with wood and see if I could come up with something that actually worked.
The next thing to decide is size. I would highly recommend not going too overboard I decided to try to make a wood lathe for pieces up to 4 inches in diameter and about 30 inches long, although I will not be trying something that big until I get more practice with small items, like tops, chess pieces, other little toys.
But I figured that I had a pretty powerful motor sitting around, so I might as well make it big enough to handle large salt shakers and chair legs so in the future I could do large things. As you can see in the diagram mentioned in the previous step, the bed is kind of the frame of the lathe.
I figured I needed about 8 inches for the headstock basically a pulley for power from motor, supports, and a chuck to hold the work and 4 inches for the tailstock supports work on the other end , so I figured the bed should be about 40 inches long.
The bed needs to be very solid and not flexible or the material will wiggle all over as you are trying to work with it. Out of the 96", I cut two 40" pieces for the main rails. This design turned out to be slightly more wiggly than I had hoped, maybe for the second version I will use steel.
The picture shows the two pieces on a stool in the orientation they will be in. I laid the two pieces back to back and lined them up very carefully. It is crucial that the tops of the two pieces are level and lined up.
I used three smaller bolts rather than one large bolt through each piece of UHMW to prevent rotating. I numbered each intersection of the base in case I ever need to take it apart, it would be easier to put back together. The first picture is a close-up of one of the two UHMW pieces on the end. The second photo shows the bed being stood up by a clamp. These pieces are basically feet, but act as brackets to secure the bed of the lathe to whatever larger surface you will attach it to.
I cut four 2" long pieces of the angle that I used for the bed of the lathe, and faced them in opposite directions in pairs as shown in the photo. The pieces are attached with the same bolt configuration as the longer pieces. The first photo is a close-up of one end.
The second photo is the whole bed standing up by itself! I mounted the bed of the lathe now to make it less tippy. There are basically two options: mount it permanently onto a workbench, or mount it onto something else so it can be stowed away when not in use. I mounted it onto two pieces of 2"x4" that I cut to the depth of the workbench so I could put it away if I needed the workbench. I screwed one wood screw through each foot into the 2"x4", and that seemed to make it sturdy enough.
The first photo is a picture of the bed mounted on top of my workbench. The second photo is a closeup of the feet mounted to the wood. I went ahead and made this piece now because it would allow me to tell whether the whole base was actually straight and smooth enough to continue using.
UHMW is a good material for this piece because it slides easily on the aluminum bed of the lathe. The total width of my base is two pieces of 1. The photo shows the pieces assembled, which is covered in the next step, but I did not want to take it apart again for a photo. To assemble, I simply clamped the four pieces to the base and drilled through the angle into the UHMW with a small bit. Screws through the alumnium into the UHMW hold it together. Now you need to test the sliding ability of it.
Do not give up immediately if it doesn't slide. Congratulations, you now have a very small monorail! I drilled 4 holes into the top of the UHMW, all lined up very precisely with the gap between the rails. The first picture shows it on the end of the lathe to show how it should fit the track upon completion.
The second picture shows it right after assembly. The last photo shows your monorail in action! Because I was not sure about the height that the spindle would be, I did not want to construct anymore of the tailstock yet, so I started on the headstock. The general idea is to support a spinning shaft which has both the pulley and the chuck on it. This rod will go through the bed and be secured with a nut from the bottom.
I made two of the supports. The height of the main shaft above the bed determines the diameter of work that can be done on the lathe, so i added more UHMW pieces beneath the shaft supports to raise the height of the actual supports.
I then tightened the nuts on the bottom fairly tight to secure the two supports about 7 inches apart. The first picture shows one of the completed supports. The second picture shows the supports mounted to the bed of the lathe. Next I aligned the two supports I created. I pushed a long threaded rod through both of the supports, and fiddled until the rod lined up perfectly with the bed. I had to remake the supports several times until I got the shaft to line up nicely, but it is worth a little extra work to have a well aligned shaft.
When you are happy with the alignment, tighten down the supports extremely tightly because they wont be moving. The photo shows the shaft pretty well aligned with the bed. Now that the supports are tightened down, I secured the shaft in its place to prevent it from moving left or right as different pressures are applied to the workpiece.
I started by putting three greased washers against each of the support pieces. Then I locked two nuts against the washers, so that both of the support pieces press slightly away from each other. The double nuts help to prevent loosening as the shaft is spinning.
When both sets of nuts are in, any back and forth play should be eliminated in the shaft. Looking at the picture will make it clearer. I will not go into excessive detail here because everyone's motor setup will vary. The main thing is to make sure your motor can spin with both a lot of speed and a lot of power.
Mine is a 10 pound, 1. I decided to use this motor because I had the motor and a fully variable speed controller just sitting around. I secured a large aluminum plate to one of the shaft supports and mounted the motor to the plate. Before mounting the motor, you should take into consideration the length of the belt you will use to transfer the power.
When the motor is mounted, the shaft of the motor and the main lathe shaft should be parallel. An alternative would be to mount the motor to the 2"x4" base, which would take the weight of the motor off of the lathe bed.
The picture shows the motor mounted. Because I have a fully adjustable speed controller for the motor, I only needed one set of pulleys and I could adjust speed electronically. The gray colored iron pulley on the motor I had kicking around, but I needed a pulley for the lathe shaft. I made one by cutting three circles out of MDF and gluing them together. I found these pretty awesome pieces at Home Depot called tee nuts see third picture. These are basically threaded inserts for wood, so I imbedded one of these into the center of the pulley.
Once I had the two pulleys properly aligned, I tightened the setscrew on the iron pulley to secure it. Because of the tee nut, the wooden pulley acts like a nut, so to secure it in position, I simply tightened another nut against it. The first two pictures are two views of the completed belt drive. The third picture is a tee nut. Because I like to do things the hard way, I made a chuck from scratch instead of buying one from Amazon.
The basic idea of the chuck is to hold the work. I chose to make a 4 jaw chuck because I can hold square things as well as round things. I started by cutting a 5" circle out of some thick MDF to the best of my ability with a jigsaw and then drilled a hole in the middle. I fitted the hole in the middle with a tee nut. Using the same method as the pulley, I threaded this piece onto the shaft and secured it with a nut.